How-to
Learn how to care for Japanese knives: hand washing, drying, storage choices, cutting boards and habits that prevent chips and rust.
Much of the wear on a Japanese knife happens between uses, in the sink, on the wrong board, or in a drawer. That makes care less a weekend chore than a set of habits that either protect the edge or quietly undo it.
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A dishwasher combines high heat, harsh detergent, long exposure to moisture and contact with other utensils, and that mix can compromise the blade, the handle and the edge. Hand washing avoids all of it. Use warm water, a soft sponge and mild dish soap, then dry the blade completely before it goes anywhere.
The habits that undo this routine are easy to fall into, so it helps to name them:
Most stainless Japanese knives shrug off rust far better than traditional carbon steel, though poor upkeep over the long haul can still invite corrosion. Carbon steel is a different case. It rusts quickly if left wet, and it develops a natural patina as it ages. That patina is a record of use rather than damage. On a stainless blade, a change in the look of the steel more often points to moisture than to age, so it is worth checking for wet spots after washing.
Storage is where many edges get damaged without anyone noticing. The top japanese knife set under $200 comparison covers the steel and block design of each set, which decides how much of the advice below applies to your kitchen. Whatever you choose, the blade should be dry before it is put away.
Three common options each suit a different kitchen:
Wood gives slightly under the blade, and that give reduces edge wear, which is why wooden boards are the usual recommendation for Japanese knives. Hinoki is a traditional Japanese choice, with a soft, resilient surface that cushions the blade on contact and helps the edge stay sharp between sharpenings. Other quality wooden boards are also far better than hard surfaces.
Glass, marble, granite, ceramic and titanium should be avoided. They are unforgiving and can dull or damage even a fine blade in a few strokes.
Most damage comes from using the blade for jobs it was never made for. These habits are worth dropping, along with a quick look along the edge now and then to catch small chips early.
A mild metal polish worked on with light hand pressure usually lifts small surface rust spots, and catching them early keeps them from becoming permanent damage. A rust eraser, a rubber compound made to lift rust and stains, also works on carbon steel, though it can leave fine scratch marks and strip away a patina.